*To order any of the items on this page, please CLICK HERE or scroll to the bottom of this page
The electrical HOTPLATE is availiable in 240 volt for use outside the USA, at no extra charge.
Please let us know with your order if you need a 240 setup
LARGER BIOFLASK AND DISTILER SIZES WE OFFER:
A 5 liter bioflask is availiable for $100 if purchased with the distiller instead of the 2 liter bioflask,
or $150 if purchased in addition to the 2 liter bioflask
This flask holds more than twice the plant material and allows you to make a lot more oil per distillation run.
Nothing else is needed to turn your 2 liter kit into a 5 liter system!
33 to 65 LITER (10-20 gallon) STAINLESS STEEL system
Click here or click the photo below for more info on our big systems!
Here's photos of the various bioflask sizes and our new stainless steel electric or gas fired systems, 10, 15, and 20 gallon biocapacity
(note the 10 liter bioflask in the photo is no longer available)
Prices for various Bioflasks:
Prices for various distillers:
2L-$399........ 5L-$499........ 33L-$2499........ 100 gallon $19,999
These prices do not include shipping or California sales tax
ACCESSORIES WE OFFER:
Adapter Kit for 2 and 5 liter systems:
This kit, $75, enables you to set 2 and 5 liter distillers up for many different kinds of operations ranging
from hydrodistillation to solvent recovery and tincture concentration.
SCROLL DOWN FOR FURTHER INFO ON THIS KIT
* Please Note: the adapter and tincture kits are not compatible with the 10 liter system due to the difference in joint sizes.
* An adapter kit can be special ordered for the 10 liter kit for $100.. it is quite a bit different so please email first for details
* Adapter kits for stainless systems are avaliable, but are made for specific purposes only and must be discussed with us prior to placing an order
VARIOUS WAYS TO SET UP AND USE THE ADAPTER KIT
Here are a few different ways to set it up with the adapter kit:
If you wish to do a "Hydrodistillation" instead of a steam distillation (the biomass is simply stuck right in there with the boiling water instead of in a separate flask) use the long hydrodistillation adapter from the option kit in place of the biomass flask, and then set the still up the same as you would for steam distillation. You might want to wrap a towel around the tube as an insulating jacket, to help the steam to go all the way up to the top without condensing.
Mix your biomass in with the water in the boiling flask and proceed as normal.
Other, more "Classic" distillations
such as solvent recovery sometimes require the use of a thermometer in the process,
and a slightly different setup using other of the optional kit's components.
In this case, put the solvent to be recovered into the bio flask
which has been capped with the little cap from the kit,
and put the thermometer from the kit into the top of the stillhead.
NOT SHOWN in the photo- you then need to submerge the lower half of the bioflask
in a pot of water that you then heat with the hotplate,
and this will then boil your solvent and cause it to distill and purify.
(Note that in this and all setups the weight of the glassware should rest on either the pan's bottom or the hotplate.
The clamps we supply aren't made to hold weight).
The purified solvent will be recovered by collecting it at the outlet of the conenser.
The thermometer will allow you to monitor the progress of the distillation as it runs
Using the adapter tube and cap, when set up as shown here
you can use the set to concentrate tinctures
by driving out the solvents and recovering them in the 500ml flask.
The concentrated tincture will stay in the adapter tube and cap.
As in the solvent recoverys setup above,
you then need to submerge the lower half of the adapter tube in a pot of water
that you then heat with the hotplate.
The receiver is not used in these distillations.
Very Brief instructions on distillation
Turn the heat on and as things get going, turn it down until the rate of drip out the condenser is about a drip or two per second, which is the distillation rate at which you typically get the best purity. Watch the thermometer as the distillate starts coming over, you'll see the thermometer shoot up to it's published boiling temperature. As long as the temperature stays there, you're collecting what you want. When all of what you are collecting is gone from the boiling mixture, the temperature will often take a dip (as long as it isn't an azetropic mixture * , distillation will stop for a moment as the temperature of the boiling pot increases, and then it will all resume at a higher temperature. This signals that it's time to stop at this point, or you'll now be diluting your prized catch with stuff you don't want!
...ALWAYS USE BOILING CHIPS...
* BOILING and SOLVENTS
Not that you need this information, but in case you have any questions about azetropic mixtures, boiling and what it actually is, why you are supposed to use boiling chips, or perhaps you want to know the boiling temperatures of many common solvents,
If you'd like to LEARN A LOT MORE ABOUT the technical aspects of DISTILLATION,
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS BOOK TO EVERYONE
who is interested in venturing even the slighest amount beyond what's described in these instructions....it is a book about basic chemistry laboratory practices and how not to blow yourself up while learning them. It's easy to read because the author is surprisingly funny as well as informative. You may not think you need to know anything about chemistry to distill essential oils and other things (and you might be right), but while this book is aimed at the college lab student, it's chock full of little tidbits that will help you understand what you are doing and how to do it more safely.
Its availiable from Amazon.com
Clicking on the name of the book will take you to the appropriate Amazon webpage:
The Organic Chem Lab Survival Manual
By James W. Zubrick
It's WELL worth every penny!!!